The Search For Robert

The blues have always been something important to me and my spirit. I knew it was so when I first heard Cream on the radio playing "Crossroads" when I was in high school. I was on a trip with my parents, we'd just arrived home in our Toyota Celica, and I stayed in the car until the song was over. I knew that something special was contained in the chord structures and verse of the blues. Eric Clapton's spirited solo in "Crossroads" gave me a desire to search deep within the meaning of the blues ... and within it, I found Robert Johnson.

Very little is known of Robert's life. Robert had done his recordings in November 23, 26 and 27, 1936 in San Antonio and June 19 and 20, 1937 in Dallas. That's all of his recorded history. For many years, I was unable to find much more about him other than his legend. Then, I heard "Crossroads" ... "went down to the crossroads, fell down on my knees" ... and something struck a chord deep within me.

I managed to find copies of both of his records - on vinyl (the best known being "King of the Delta Blues Singers" - 1961). The CD collection of all of his works, all 29 songs and outtakes (41 cuts total), was released in 1990. I almost ran to Waterloo Records to buy it once I knew when it was going to be released.

In the early '90s (I think it was 1992) I went on a trek to Mississippi to find out the roots of Robert Johnson. I wanted to know the rural nature of backroads Mississippi - the home of so many blues players from times long past. I wanted to see the crossroads that Robert spoke of in the song. I drove down Highway 1 and Highway 61, in the midst of cotton and nothingness. I stopped in Clarksdale to see the Delta Blues Museum (www.deltabluesmuseum.org/), and there it was - the legendary photos that had finally been unearthed. And it was all there in those photos ... those eyes ... that passion for the blues ...

And I found the infamous "crossroads" of the song - at the intersection of Highways 49 and 61.

I knew there was a great dispute about his burial place - much of Robert's life and death is a mystery, except for what he recorded in those 5 days in Texas - but the people at the Museum assured me that they could direct me to it.

I was this close - I was going to go down to the crossroads.

He died August 16, 1938 at a crossroads near Greenwood, Mississippi (www.gcvb.com). Though there is some debate as to where he's truly buried, the birth certificate states Mt. Zion Missionary Baptist Church between Quito and Morgan City. After a little driving, and thinking that I must surely be in the middle of nowhere, I happened upon the place.

And then I went down to the crossroads, fell down on my knees ...

Life is pretty quiet in the depths of Mississippi. I remember the day well. It was overcast, almost surreal. It was a moving experience. The blues had opened up my world and had allowed me to explore the deepest recesses of my heart and soul. It had given me a voice (through the guitar and those 3 chords) that would change my life forever. Here I was, deep in the heart of Mississippi, sharing a moment at the burial place of this troubled bluesman. I have to say, it was something that I am not sure words will ever let me describe.

Fast forward to 2005. After Ironman, I drove back through Mississippi on my way back to Texas. I stopped in Vicksburg for the night, but the next morning took some time to drive back up Highway 61. It brought back memories ... and I wish I'd had more time to drive all the way back to Clarksdale. This is something I will do again, sometime ...

For some reason in the years since my first adventure in Mississippi, I'd not made the mental link between Robert and San Antonio. Many of his best-known works ... were done in San Antonio. For some reason, I'd not made the link to the proximity to Austin. I'd been to places like Quito, Clarksdale and Yazoo City - but I'd not done my research in my own backyard.

So off I went to San Antonio, to find the location of his first recordings. And there, at the corner of Houston and St.Mary's, was the Gunter Hotel. There's a historical landmark there now inside the lobby. I am sure at one time it was a beautiful hotel with chandeliers and an upper mezzanine level that overlooks the lobby. Imagine what it must have been like in the mid '30s. His images adorn one window case as do his records ... right next to the "Robert Johnson room". What a place that would be for a meeting!

On Saturday, May 26, the trip had come full circle for me. What an amazing search it's been ... in more ways than one.